My red knee tarantula is climbing, won't eat, and has mites. Help!

Remove her from her main tank and put her in a smaller hospital tank. You can use paper towels for substrate. Change them daily. Increase tank temps to 80 F with a basking spot of about 85 F. Maintain humidity at 70%. Mist her daily and provide a water bowl. Use only dechlorinated water. It she isn't defecating normally, a soak in a honey and water solution may stimulate defecation. A dilute unflavored PediaLyte solution can treat or prevent mild dehydration. Offer appropriately sized prey, no bigger than the space between her eyes. You can also feed bits of nightcrawlers. If the redness and symptoms persist, have her examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles and amphibians.

Rose hair tarantulas will eat a wide variety of invertebrate prey, as well as the occasional pinky mouse. Crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and roaches should all be included in a balanced diet for this species. These tarantulas will eat 3 to 5 large crickets a week, or a similar amount of other prey items. Food should be offered at least twice a week, and uneaten prey should be removed after 24 hours. Some rose hairs will eat more, and some will eat less. It is not uncommon for them to gorge themselves for several feedings and then to fast for up to a month.

Corn snakes can grow to as long as 5 feet. On average, they grow to 3-4 feet. A 10 gallon tank is too small. At minimum, a 20 gallon enclosure is recommended. A temp range of 75F-85F is best. They do not "need" a UVB light source but seem to be healthier with one. At 2 years of age, it should be eating adult mice. If it can't, feed whatever you can to get it back into a positive plane of nutrition so it can grow properly. Consider an exam with your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet to diagnose and treat any pre exiting conditions. Submit a stool sample to diagnose intestinal parasites. More information regarding care can be found here: http://www.anapsid.org/corn.html

That hinge on her plastron (bottom shell) is normal. It is supposed to appear "split". That allows her to close up securely when she retracts her head. These turtles do not get as big as other species, but a 10 gallon tank is too small. She also needs a UVB light source. Windows will block most of the sun's beneficial rays. You can find a UVB light source in most pet stores. A popular brand is the ZooMed ReptiSun light. They are good eaters, eating a wide variety of animal protein, plant matter and commercial diets. The link below leads to a care sheet providing additional information. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Three-toed-Box-Turtle-Care-and-Information/

Clean and sanitize the enclosure, bowls and any tank furniture. Discard anything that cannot be sanitized. Replace the substrate temporarily with paper towels and change them daily. You can purchase a commercial mite treatment to use. Confirm it is safe to use in reptiles before use. Follow label directions carefully. You can also soak him in a warm bath of diluted Betadine. Wipe him gently during the bath. The diluted Betadine will kill the mites and clean any wounds or irritation caused by mite infection.

You must treat both the environment and the pet. You can try some over the counter products but many can be ineffective if the environment is not treated concurrently. Ivermectin can be dispensed by your veterinarian to use systemically or topically. Do not treat with ivermectin without the advice of your veterinarian as it is quite easy to overdose. A 30 minute soak in a diluted Betadine bath can remove most mites and may soothe irritated skin. Remove the substrate, bag it and take it outdoors. Clean and sanitize the cage, bowls and tank furniture. You can use hot, soapy water followed by a 1:30 dilution of bleach and water followed by a thorough rinsing on the tank, bowls and non porous surfaces. Discard anything that cannot be sanitized. You may need to clean and sanitize the enclosure weekly for several weeks. The pet may need multiple treatments as well.

It should not be used in areas where your anole will come into frequent contact with it. This may lead to skin irritation. Instead, clean and sanitize the tank, bowls and any hard, non-political tank furniture. Discard anything that cannot be sanitized. A soak and bath in a diluted Betadine solution may rinse away mites and treat minor infection. Soak for 15 minutes and use a cotton swan to gently clean around the head. You may need to bathe your anole and clean the tank several times over a few weeks time to completely eradicate the mite infection.