Overhead vs. under tank heating: What's best for my reptile?

Under a surface heat pads are good for helping them thermoregulate. There is only a risk of being burnt if directly exposed to the heat source (i.e. hot rocks). It's important that the heat pad is only under a portion of the enclosure not to exceed 50% of the surface. You always want a cool side of the enclosure and a warm side, so Loki go where is best for him. Make sure the heat pad is not too hot (if it's too hot for your skin, then it's too hot for him). I've found they do well when the heat pad is on a medium, or mild setting depending on the ambient temperature and eclosure. It may take a little experimenting to see what temperature seems best for him. I hope that helps and all is well with Loki.

A RES requires full spectrum lighting (UVA and UVB) and lighting that provides heat. The dry dock, or basking area, should be completely out of the water. Basking temps should range between 90F and 95F (32-35C). You should place the UVA/UVB bulb as close to the heat lamp as possible. It should be no more than 12" away from your RES and should not have a barrier between it and your turtle. Glass, acrylic and plastic block UVB while screens with grids under 1/2" can obstruct a good portion of UVB rays negating the health benefits. Lighting should be on for around 12 hours a day, depending on the time of year. Full UVA/UVB bulbs need replacing every 6 months. The simplest combination for adequate lighting is a UVA/UVB fluorescent bulb and an incandescent light bulb (for heat). Incandescent light bulbs are standard household lights easily purchased at stores such as Home Depot or Lowes. Make sure your RES cannot splash water on it or come into contact with it. You can also consider halogen lights and red heat bulbs for supplemental heat. You can buy the UVA/UVB bulbs at most pet stores. Search in the Reptile section. They can also be purchased online for around $30-$40. ReptiSun 10.0 (by ZooMed) or ReptiGlo lights are quality full spectrum bulbs.

Ideally, the UVB light source should run the entire length of the tank. A thermometer/hygrometer should be on each end of the tank to confirm cool and warm sides. Use a digital thermometer to verify temps. Those little ones you have can be inaccurate. Provide a hide on both sides as well. Personally, I would remove the fake grass as it has the potential to cause eye injuries. Your tank looks good otherwise.

First i would recommend describing exactly what type of heating system you are using at the moment. this following link might help you: https://blog.onlinegeckos.com/leopard-gecko-heating-temperature-requirement-under-tank-heating-pad-belly-heat-how-to-install-uth-thermostat/

It is okay for nighttime temps to drop a bit. Make sure they don't go lower than the low 70s F. Consider a thermometer at each end of the enclosure to verify temperatures. If necessary, a 60 watt CHE would probably heat or maintain temps above the low 70s F in a small tank overnight. You would need to test it out. Save the receipt in case you need to return it or buy a 100 watt CHE and move it farther away from the tank.

Thanks for reaching out about Dwight. Do you know how cold it is getting at night? If dropping below 70, probably needs a red heat lamp or ceramic heater, neither of which should affect his diurnal cycle. Good luck.

If you are using a heat lamp, move it farther away (raise it up) from the surface of the tank until temps are appropriate. If you are using a heating pad or UTH (under tank heater), they should be used with a rheostat or thermostat so that you can adjust the temperature. Make sure the enclosure is large enough to provide a warm side and a cool side. If Egon gets too hot, he can move to the cool side until he wants to bask again or warm up.