Is my leopard gecko's tank setup good? What else does it need?

Thanks for your question about Smaug, and thanks for the photo as well! I think that you have a good start to your set up, and that we can tweak a few items. First, your lighting situation appears adequate - I see a UVB light (please change this bulb every 4-6 months), a basking light, and a ceramic heat bulb. I would ensure that your temperatures are appropriate for this species, and that you are monitoring them using digital thermometers (I think that you see both a digital and analog thermometers currently) at the level of Smaug. Analog thermometers are inaccurate, so I don't recommend using them (also, they are high up on the sides of the enclosure, so they wouldn't be giving an accurate temperature read for Smaug). For the cage furniture that you have, I like that you have places for Smaug to climb and hide. However, I would recommend having a hide on both the warm side of the enclosure and the cool side so that Smaug has choices. Same for the climbing structures. I may have missed a food and water dish in the enclosure - I would recommend that both of these be shallow, and be large enough for Smaug's entire body to fit within them. I cannot tell what type of shavings that you have on the bottom of the enclosure, but the only wood shavings that I recommend are aspen shavings. If they are pine, these can be irritating to the respiratory system. I hope that gives you a place to start, and thanks for using Petco Pet Education Center, formerly Petcoach!

The tank looks fine, but geckos absorb heat better through their bellies than through their back, as they tend to be more active at dawn and dusk, rather than other lizards that are active during the day and would bask in the sun in the wild.

Ideally, the UVB light source should run the entire length of the tank. A thermometer/hygrometer should be on each end of the tank to confirm cool and warm sides. Use a digital thermometer to verify temps. Those little ones you have can be inaccurate. Provide a hide on both sides as well. Personally, I would remove the fake grass as it has the potential to cause eye injuries. Your tank looks good otherwise.

It's a fine set up. You may not need the CHE at night. As long as nighttime temperatures don't drop below 70 F, you should be fine without supplemental heat. I can't see the top, but make sure the UVB light is not blocked by fine mesh.

Thanks for reaching out about your gecko and including photos. This animal is emaciated and starving for nutrients. A veterinary visit if highly recommended, ASAP, as it appears severely ill. Intestinal infections/parasite and metabolic disorders (liver, kidney) are among the most common causes. Check and correct husbandry as environmental parameters (heat, UVB exposure, humidity) are extremely important for recovery. Offer water and food through a syringe until a veterinary appointment can be made. Good luck.

A heat lamp isn't necessary unless the room where the cage is located is cold. Cresties do just fine at room temperature. A UVB light source isn't necessary either as long as you feed a diet containing adequate levels of Vitamon D3. That said, either won't harm him and it is a matter of personal preference. Be sure to monitor cage temps to make sure they don't go too high. There was no image attached to this question. Age can be difficult to determine if you don't have a hatch date. The reason being that growth can be dramatically affected by diet and environment. Contact the PetSmart where he was purchased. They should have records from the source/breeder which should include a hatch date or age.

Thanks for reaching out about Norman. Geckos should be offered food every other day at least. Mealworms are not a complete meal. A wider variety of insects need to be offered and they need to be gut-loaded. Heat needs to be in the POTZ (Preferred Optimal Temperature Zone) for the species. UVB exposure is necessary for vitamin D synthesis and calcium metabolism. Good luck.