My new green anole is turning brown. What heat and UVB do I need?

The ReptiSun 5.0 UVB bulb will provide sufficient UVA/UVB lighting for an anole. Be sure it is not obstructed by glass or plexiglass and replace it every 6 months (it loses strength over time). Leonard should have 12-14 hours or lighting each day. The simplest way to ensure this is to place the tank light and UVB light on a timer. If temps drop below 65 F at night, you'll need a supplemental heat source for the enclosure. A ceramic heat emitter (CHE) will emit heat with no visible light so as to not disturb him at night. You can read more about anole care here: http://www.anapsid.org/anole.html

Hello. For the best health & living conditions for your anole, please only use products designed for them. Heating pads are dangerous & reptiles are not plants & require a very specific spectrum of light to grow in a healthy manner. In the long run, you will have less problems & metabolic health issues if you prepare a proper environment for your pet. Thanks for using Petco Pet Education Center, formerly Petcoach.

A dehydrated or cold anole will not eat. Make sure ambient and basking temps in the enclosure are species appropriate. Soak him in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte to warm him up and rehydrate him. Offer appropriate sized prey (crickets, mealworms, dubia roaches, silk worms). Nothing bigger than the space between his eyes. Gut load them for 24 hours prior to offering to maximize nutritional value. Have him examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles if he does not regain his appetite. Frequently, these little guys are infected with intestinal parasites. Follow the link below for more information regarding care. http://www.anapsid.org/anole.html

Congratulations on your new addition! The tank is sufficient for a juvenile, however you will likely need a larger one when Sonora is fully grown. Make sure Sonora can get into and out of the bowl easily to prevent drowning. Place thermometers in the enclosure to monitor temperature. You will need 3. One at the cool side, one on the warm side and one for the basking spot. Hygrometers can also be used to monitor humidity. You can review care information at the link below. http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html

That hinge on her plastron (bottom shell) is normal. It is supposed to appear "split". That allows her to close up securely when she retracts her head. These turtles do not get as big as other species, but a 10 gallon tank is too small. She also needs a UVB light source. Windows will block most of the sun's beneficial rays. You can find a UVB light source in most pet stores. A popular brand is the ZooMed ReptiSun light. They are good eaters, eating a wide variety of animal protein, plant matter and commercial diets. The link below leads to a care sheet providing additional information. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Three-toed-Box-Turtle-Care-and-Information/

You can watch his sides for respirations. Soak him in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. He should respond and become more active as he warms up and rehydrates. If he survives, have him examined by an experienced herp vet. Follow this link for more information regarding care: http://www.anapsid.org/anole.html

Ideally, the UVB light source should run the entire length of the tank. A thermometer/hygrometer should be on each end of the tank to confirm cool and warm sides. Use a digital thermometer to verify temps. Those little ones you have can be inaccurate. Provide a hide on both sides as well. Personally, I would remove the fake grass as it has the potential to cause eye injuries. Your tank looks good otherwise.