My new ball python won't eat. Is it shedding or something else?

Thank you for reaching out about your ball python - she is really cute! There are a few things you can try/check for the appetite. Often times, when we are seeing issues with appetite, the first thing we try to do is check the husbandry and ensure that it is as perfect as it can be. Sometimes in between seasons the temperatures can get off in the enclosure, and I would recommend checking that first. Also, the humidity can affect the shedding intervals, in addition to the temperature. I would recommend evaluating the temperatures in the enclosure with digital thermometers to ensure that they are appropriate. Also, based on how she looks in the photos, she appears to be in fair body condition, so she may also be regulating herself as far as her weight/appetite goes. This would be a bit of an exception for a ball python, as most of them will overeat and become overweight. But, there are exceptions to the rule and maybe she is one of them! For the prey items - I like that you are using a separate container, and that you are warming the prey items in warm water. Please ensure that the water gets them to body temperature for rodents, which is around 100-102F. Often snakes will eat prey items that are cooler than that, but if a snake is being picky I try to encourage owners to get them measure the temperature to ensure it is warm enough. I hope that this gives you a place to start, and if she doesn't eat despite all of these changes, I would recommend a veterinary visit for her!

Check the temps in the enclosure. Low temps can affect appetite in reptiles. next, make sure you are offering appropriately sized prey. If it is too bog, he won't eat it or may regurgitate it afterwards. If you feed frozen/thawed, make sure it is at least room temperature before offering it to Ares. A snake will not eat cold prey. If he will allow, look in and around his mouth for signs of infection or injury. This may include redness, swelling, bleeding or discharge. Anything suspicious should be addressed by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. Soak him in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte to treat or prevent minor dehydration. Offer prey and cover the cage afterwards. If he doesn't eat, remove it and try again in 5-7 days. Do not force feed. If you can provide the species, we may be able to provide more specific advice. If Ares is a ball python, they are notorious for their "hunger strikes". Make sure he stays warm and hydrated. Identify and reduce or eliminate any negative stimuli in or around the cage.

It may be a combination of being in a small cage and a new environment. Ball pythons are notorious for not eating if stressed. Make sure the temperature is correct also. A cold snake will not eat. Wait a few days, then offer a pinkie at dusk of in the evening. Gently tap her nose to elicit a strike. Cover the cage for more privacy/security. You can also try scenting the pinkie with some used gerbil bedding. Ask the local pet store if you can have some from the gerbil cages.

Thanks for reaching out about your ball python. Seems like your husbandry is good. Intestinal parasites are common in snakes, more prominent in recent acquisitions. A fecal examination by a veterinarian is probably the first idea. Metabolic disorders or systemic infections are other possibilities. Good luck.

Ball pythons are notorious for their "hunger strikes". All parameters seem to be within species ranges. Survey the area around the cage for any negative stimuli. This may include loud noises or vibrations, bright lights, cold drafts or high traffic. Reduce or eliminate any if found. Go to the local Petco and ask for a small amount of used (but not dirty) gerbil bedding. Use it to scent prey for your snakes. Gerbils are what pythons eat in the wild, so the scent may trigger their appetites. Soak them both in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte to treat or prevent minor dehydration. An exam with your veterinarian would be recommended to diagnose any underlying illness or injury.

Check the tank temps. If it is too cold, she won't eat. Aim for the mid 70s on the cool side of her enclosure up to the mid/high 80s on warmer side. Feed her at night. BPs are nocturnal and typically feed at night. Create a hide and cover it completely with her and the prey inside. Make sure whatever prey you offer is the appropriate size and not too cold (especially if you feed frozen prey). Other ways to get her to eat would be to offer different colored mice. Tap a thawed, warmed or freshly killed mouse on her nose to elicit a strike. Removing her from the enclosure, placing the prey in, then returning her about 30 minutes later may also get her to eat. Soak her in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte a couple times daily to treat or prevent mild dehydration. Do not force feed her if she is dehydrated or without the advice of your veterinarian.

Snakes have a very slow metabolism. So, it takes them a long time to get sick and conversely a long time to get better. Overall from the photo he doesn’t look too bad, just thin. Just get all your husbandry 100% correct and he should come around. ( https://mobile.petcoach.co/amp/article/ball-python-python-regius-basic-husbandry-and-feeding-housi ) If you keep trying to feed him and he doesn’t want it that can cause food aversion. So, it’s best to offer him nothing for a few weeks. Snakes can go very long time without eating so I wouldn’t really be worried about that. When you do start feeding him start with a lot smaller pray than you would normally use (like pinkies). Are you using live or pre-killed food? If you’re trying pre-killed he may not be used to that . He also may be in brumation so keep that in mind. Hope this helps. If you have more questions you are welcome to post again or you can opt for a private consultation if you want to chat back and forth. Best wishes.