Why is my ball python always on the cool side and not basking?

Hi, Yes this could be normal. Please check him for mites (little parasites that may look like little red dots moving around). If you cannot see many, and assuming that Pie is eating well and shedding regularly there is no cause for concern.

Once he acclimates to his new home, he may become more active. Ball pythons are mostly nocturnal also, so if the room is bright he may seek dark spots and come out at dusk or overnight. Keep a large bowl of water in the tank. A deep layer of porous substrate may hold moisture longer. You can even add some moss. Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity. If it's too high, you can predispose your python to respiratory infection.

Spider Balls are known to have a head wobble. Typically, it is mild and does not affect overall health or quality of life. This may be contributing to his behavior. IBD can be tricky to diagnose and you'll need an experienced herp veterinarian to confirm it. Monitor for persistent or worsening symptoms and then have him examined or have him examined sooner for peace of mind.

Thanks for reaching out about your ball python. Seems like your husbandry is good. Intestinal parasites are common in snakes, more prominent in recent acquisitions. A fecal examination by a veterinarian is probably the first idea. Metabolic disorders or systemic infections are other possibilities. Good luck.

Check the tank temps. If it is too cold, she won't eat. Aim for the mid 70s on the cool side of her enclosure up to the mid/high 80s on warmer side. Feed her at night. BPs are nocturnal and typically feed at night. Create a hide and cover it completely with her and the prey inside. Make sure whatever prey you offer is the appropriate size and not too cold (especially if you feed frozen prey). Other ways to get her to eat would be to offer different colored mice. Tap a thawed, warmed or freshly killed mouse on her nose to elicit a strike. Removing her from the enclosure, placing the prey in, then returning her about 30 minutes later may also get her to eat. Soak her in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte a couple times daily to treat or prevent mild dehydration. Do not force feed her if she is dehydrated or without the advice of your veterinarian.

I am sorry for the loss of your snakes. Ideally, Ivory should be physically examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet, especially in light of your recent losses. The spots could indicate infection (bacterial, fungal or even a viral condition). It is difficult to make a detrmination by looking at an image. In the meantime, clean and sanitize all the enclosures, bowls, hides and tank furniture. Discard anything that cannot be sanitized. Wash your hands thoroughly between handling each snake. Confirm, again if necessary, proper environmental parameters. Low temps can lead to stress which may predispose a snake to infection or illness. High humidity can foster bacterial or fungal overgrowth. Consider using paper towels as substrate until the issue is resolved. Change them daily to maintain clean conditions.

Thanks for reaching out about Lilith. Check and correct husbandry parameters for temperature range. Try increasing to 90-95 F in the warm end, to try and stimulate the immune system. Continue to monitor for nasal discharge or increased oral mucous. If the condition progresses, a veterinary visit is recommended. Good luck.