My swordtail has clamped fins, rubbing, no white spots. Is it Ich?

It could be early ich (white spot) infection or another infection (bacterial or fungal). To be safe, separate him into a quarantine tank and monitor for any change. You can treat for ich as you did it in the past if indicated. Bacterial and fungal infections have different treatments, so I would be hesitant to recommend a specific medication without more information or a definitive diagnosis. You can use plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt or Epsom salt). As a general tonic to reduce stress, increase gill function, treat minor infection of many types and to aid in recovery. This can be added to the quarantine tank at 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. Treat for 10-14 days then reassess the condition.

Separate him into a smaller quarantine tank. You can use a broad spectrum antibiotic to treat him. Read package directions carefully and remove the carbon insert if necessary during g treatment. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) can be used concurrently to aid healing. Dissolve 1 teaspoon per gallon of water into the tank. The Ich can be managed by gradually to about 86 F. Raise it no more than 1 degree per hour to prevent stress. This will speed up the life cycle of the parasite. Once the "dots" drop off your fish, you can vacuum the gravel daily and sanitize any tank furniture. Keep the temperature elevated for about two weeks to ensure resolution. Reduce the temp gradually after this time period. A medication such as API's QuickCure can also be used in conjunction with a temperature increase.

The safest treatment would be a temporary increase in water temperature and some plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt). Ich is very sensitive to temperature. Gradually increase water temperature, by no more than 1 degree F per hour, up to 86 F. Hold it at that temperature for at least 2weeks. This will speed up the life cycle and prevent reproduction. You can perform partial water changes (30%) and vacuum the substrate during treatment. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. An airstone should be used to increase oxygenation since warm water does not hold as much oxygen as cooler water. This could affect some the fish. Aquarium salt can be dissolved into the tank at 1-2 teaspoons per gallon of water. Dissolve it in a cup of tank water then pour it gently into the tank. When performing water changes, treat only the amount of water being replaced with salt, not the entire tank volume. After 2 weeks, gradually decrease water temperature back down to species appropriate levels.

Gradually increase the water temp to about 80 F. This will speed up the lifecycle of the parasite. Once all the spots have dropped off the fish, you can use a commercial ich treatment. Look for one in the aquarium section of the local Petco. Follow label directions carefully. If you have just a few fish in the tank, you can remove them to a separate tank after the spots have dropped off. Leave the main tank empty for 4 days at 80 F. The ich parasite cannot survive without fish, so they will die. After 4 days, perform a partial water change, vacuum the substrate, wipe down tank furniture and return the water temp to normal. Acclimate the fish to water temp before returning them to the water.

Increase the temp, gradually, to 86 F and hold it there for at least two weeks. This will speed up the ich lifecycle. When the parasite is free swimming is when it is most susceptible to treatment. Once the spots drop off your fish, perform a major water change and vacuum the substrate thoroughly. If you have live plants, remove them and gently wipe them down, if you have artificial plants, remove them and sanitize them. The same goes for any tank furniture. Use the ich medication according to label directions. Keep the water temp elevated for 3-5 days after treatment and after all symptoms have resolved. Gradually reduce water temp back to normal afterwards. There is no definitive way to determine if the infection is resolved. You will to monitor the fish closely and repeat the process if necessary.

It doesn't have the appearance of ich. He would have white spots, like grains of salt all over him. I don't see fungal growth either in the images. He does have some fin rot though. Check the water chemistry. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or for a small fee. Confirm an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 40 ppm or less. maintain temp between 78 F and 80 F. This is the optimal range for a Betta. Maintain pristine water quality as well as temperature. Continue with the ParaGuard since it is appropriate for fin rot. Follow label directions. You can also add in a bit of plain aquarium salt (NOT table or Epsom salt) as a general tonic to decrease stress, improve gill function, treat minor infection and aid in recovery. Dissolve no more than 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tan. Treat with salt for 10-14 days then reassess his condition. Partial water changes can be done to reduce salinity. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. You may need to treat the fin rot for longer but don't use salt for more than 2 weeks in a row without a break. Also, if possible, decrease filter flow to reduce the current. Bettas prefer slow moving water. To provide an immune system boost, you can soak pellets in some garlic juice .

Even though a picture of it would help to determine underlying cause more precisely, ich can only be killed in its free swimming stage. After it feeds off the fish, it drops into the substrate where it forms cysts and multiplies. Then the new ich parasites swim out of the gravel and find new fish hosts and start the cycle all over again. That is why it is important after all white spots have disappeared to continue treatment, you should continue treating for an additional 2 weeks after all symptoms are gone. After the spots disappear off the fish, I would vacuum the gravel to suck up any cysts. If you increase the temperature the life cycle of the ich becomes faster. All new fish should be placed in a quarantine tank for at least 2-3 weeks to make sure they are eating, free of disease, and are able to recuperate in a stress-free environment.