Is a rubber trough safe for a koi patio pond? Key considerations.

Anything less than a 100 gallon tank would be insufficient for koi of your sizes. They can be fed as you feed outdoors. Filtration would be critical to maintain water quality. A combination of mechanical, biological and chemicals filtration would be required.

Water softeners leave very little salt residue in the treated water. Most, not all, fish *should* do fine in softened water. Make sure you get species that does better in soft water. Use a hardness kit and monitor KH. This parameter is what can affect pH. You can set aside a gallon or two and test it after it has aged for 24-48 hours to confirm it is safe to use. Check the softener unit for a bypass valve. Some units will have one or you can get one installed. Taps/faucets outside may not be in line with the softener, so you can use water from there if necessary.

Without more detailed information, it is difficult to speculate, but there are certain "hints" in your question that suggests it might be due to low oxygen levels. First it occurred mid-afternoon, typically the warmest time of the day. Warm water loses its capacity to hold onto oxygen, particularly at temperatures above 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Warm water combined with poor water circulation can create pockets of oxygen-depleted water harmful to pond inhabitants. Your koi's positive reaction to enhanced aeration during the cool of the night when water is capable of holding onto more oxygen, is another "hint." If you are experiencing an exceptionally warm summer in your area, it might be a good idea to enhance water movement and aeration in your pond. Improved circulation helps eliminate stratification or development of harmful, oxygen poor layers.

I would avoid feeding any type of fish food to your dog. It could cause GI upset and skin issues. It may also cause him to not want to eat his regular diet. If he was given a piece every once in a while it is probably safe but I wouldn’t do much more than this.

Thank you for your question about your turtle. I think that housing your turtle in your pond during the warmer months would be a great idea, as long as you feel that the husbandry parameters that are required can be met. This will include appropriate water temperatures (often times supplemental heat is required for ponds), protection from predators (some owners will bring their turtles indoors at night), and a mixture of shad and sun (so that your turtle doesn't overheat). As far as your question about the winter, I would not recommend allowing your turtle to hibernate outdoors. Even though this is done in the wild, an artificial pond is unlikely to allow for the same parameters as a wild setting, and this may result in a dangerous situation for your turtle. You could continue to house your turtle in the winter and then add the outdoor housing in the summer as well. I hope this gives you a place to start, and thank you for using Petco Pet Education Center, formerly Petcoach.

The majority of the acclimation guide is intended for introducing animals recently purchased online into a quarantine environment that have been inside a dark box for 24+ hours and the water quality is most likely degraded from waste. Hopefully you followed these steps before introducing your pond animals into their quarantine environment. After the quarantine period the acclimation from this environment should be relatively easy and quick – given the water parameters in the quarantine environment are ideal and similar to your pond. The best way to move the fish would be to put them in a 5 gal. bucket and float the bucket in the pond for at least 30 minutes so the temperature in the bucket can gradually reach the same temperature as the pond. Make sure you do this in a shady spot of the pond or during a time period when the bucket will not be in the sun. In order to keep the bucket from tipping it may take some creativity but it may be as simple as using a wooden pole laid across the pond centered through the bucket handle to achieve this. Make sure to add a small air-stone to the bucket to agitate the surface so the oxygen and pH levels don’t change. From there you can gradually introduce pond water to the bucket and remove the mixed water until you are confident that the majority of the water left in the bucket is water from your pond (should take no more than 20-30 minutes). From there, gently scoop the fish out and place them in the pond and discard the water from the bucket.

Consider a broad spectrum treatment such as General Cure by API or Parasite Clear by Jungle Labs. Follow label directions. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) can be used concurrently to aid in healing and to treat minor infection and fin rot. Dissolve up to one tablespoon per gallon of water into a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Test water chemistry using a home test kit or submitting a water sample. Most pet or fish stores will do this for free or for a nominal fee. Correct any imbalances using aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Use a conditioner such as StressCoat as well. Confirm adequate filtration to maintain water quality.