My platy and guppy fins are clear and losing color. What's wrong?

Hi, and thanks for your question. This is a quite concerning presentation and it is likely to be related to water quality. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. Clinical examination should always include a water quality check, even if you have done so already. Water testing should be performed with a quality test kit, measuring NH4, NO2 and NO3. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for these signs. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Hope this answer was helpful, but please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further. If this answer was helpful please let us know, this will be used to improve our service!

This presentation could be compatible with fin rot, which is a bacterial or fungal infection. It is unlikely that the primary cause is traumatic, unless Tank is itchy (that could be compatible with a bacterial infection anyway) and he is scratching himself constantly. The approach must be logic anyway starting from water quality check and treating with some antibiotics. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, water should be treated with antibiotics. Please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.

Fin rot is commonly caused by poor water quality. Submit a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. Clinical examination should always include a water quality check, even if you have done so already. Water testing should be performed with a quality test kit, measuring NH4, NO2 and NO3. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for these signs. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If she/he is in a tank larger than 2 gallons move her/him to a smaller tank if possible to make treatment easier. The best treatments for mild fin rot are frequent water changes and aquarium salt. Maintain the water the treatment tank between 76-78'F. Turn the light and filter off for the time being. Aquarium salt can be used at 1 teaspoon per gallon. Dissolve it in tank water before adding it. Perform daily 100% water changes, making a fresh salt solution each day. Treat for a maximum of 10 days.

Although a picture of it would be essential to determine the underlying cause, this could be caused by fin rot. Fin rot is commonly caused by poor water quality. If he/she is in a tank larger than 2 gallons move him/her to a smaller tank if possible to make treatment easier. The best treatments for mild fin rot are frequent water changes and aquarium salt. Maintain the water the treatment tank between 76-78'F. Turn the light and filter off for the time being. Aquarium salt can be used at 1 teaspoon per gallon. Dissolve it in tank water before adding it. Perform daily 100% water changes, making a fresh salt solution each day. Treat for a maximum of 10 days.

Elevated ammonia levels can result in "burns" which may turn fins and scales black. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Most pet or fish stores will do this for free or for a nominal fee. If ammonia levels are elevated, daily partial water changes, using aged or conditioned water, can decrease ammonia to safe levels (0.25 ppm or less). StressCoat or plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) can aid in healing. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water into a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Confirm adequate filtration. The filter should be rated for at least twice the volume of the tank. You can change 20-30% of the tank water every couple of weeks. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock.

Keep her separate to prevent further damage. Maintain water quality via frequent water changes. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Platys do best around 78F. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. This will reduce stress, treat minor infection and aid in recovery. You can also add StressCoat or StressZyme. Treat with salt for 10-14 days then reassess fin condition. The fin should grow back eventually, then you can return her to the main tank.

It doesn't look like Ich in the images provided. Ich will appear as multiple white dots the size of salt grains on the fish. The fish will "flash" or dart about the tank and rub on objects due to itching. The fish may have an infection or the loss of scales may be due to trauma from other fish. Consider separating the affected fish into a separate tank to recover. If this is not possible, maintain pristine water quality in the main tank and consider a broad spectrum antibiotic. You can find one in the aquarium section of the local Petco. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated. You are likely at the maximum number of fish in the tank. As they grow, they shouldn't get bigger than 2 - 2.5 inches, and reach adulthood you may need a larger tank or you may need to separate them.