Why is my betta fish lying at the bottom and its fins changing color?

Check the water temperature. Bettas are tropical fish and do best between 78F and 80F. Low temps can affect activity in fish. If temperature is normal, check the water chemistry and perform a water change if necessary. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock.

He is "old" for a Betta. Check the water chemistry and temperature. You can use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20ppm or less. Perform partial water changes to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. The cloudy eyes may be due to infection. Maintaining pristine water quality will help, but you may need a broad spectrum antibiotic as well. Look in the aquarium section of the local Petco for medication. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated. Even with treatment, there may be permanent damage to the eyes if the condition has been chronic. The "laying down" is sometimes seen even in healthy fish. They may choose to lay on gravel or the broad leaf of a plant. It may also indicate infection or injury though. If hebisbhavibg difficulty reaching the surface, decrease the water level to make it easier. Bettas need to surface occasionally to get some air.

Drop the water temperature to 80 F. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. The higher temp likely did not cause her death, but warm water holds less oxygen than cooler water. She may have been ill or old. She does appear bloated in the image. It may have been dropsy or other infection. Monitor water chemistry using a liquid test kit. They are more accurate than the strips. Tou can also submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for 0 ppm ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Try to keep the pH as close to 7 as possible. Bettas can tolerate acidic water, but changes should be gradual to allow time for acclimation.

The first thing that needs to be done is a water quality analysis. If you don't have a test kit, most pet stores sell a basic test kit that measures pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If any of those are amiss, correct that problem. Laying on the bottom of the tank is often a sign of swim bladder disease. This could be an infection, fluid accumulation or a mass pressing on the swim bladder. All of these create a situation where the swim bladder can not contain air, that allows them to control their buoyancy in the water column. The best treatment for this is seek assistance at a veterinary clinic with experience with fish, and have systemic antibiotics prescribed. A radiographs would be helpful in diagnosis. A good fish veterinarian would probably be able to aspirate the swim bladder and collect a sample for diagnosis. The majority of antibiotics available for fish over-the-counter are not good for internal infections and could possibly make things worse. Good luck.

Check the water temperature first. Bettas are tropical fish and do best between 78 F and 80 F. Next, check water quality. This can be done by using a home test kit or by submitting a water sample for testing. The local pet store may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence ( 0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Perform partial water changes if necessary. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Offer an appropriate diet as well. Bettas are carnivorous, so make sure the flake or pellet is not mainly vegetable matter. Hikari makes a great Betta diet in pellet form. You can also offer blood worms, shrimp or Daphnia to add variety to the diet.

Check water chemistry first. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Perform a partial water change to stabilize water chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. By your description, the issue may be swim bladder disease. This can be caused by infection (bacterial or parasites) or constipation. Maintain water quality as described above. Fast the fish for 3 days then resume feeding bits of cooked and shelled green peas. This will help with constipation. If this doesn't help. you can get a broad spectrum antibiotic from the local pet store. Look in the aquarium section. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment.

Check the water temperature. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. Low temps can affect activity in fish. Afterwards, check water chemistry. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local pet store may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence ( 0 ppm ) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Keep pH as close to 7 (neutral) as possible. Perform a partial water change if necessary to stabilize and/or to improve water quality. This may improve Blue's condition. If not, you may need to treat for infection using a broad spectrum antibiotic. Bacterial infections can affect eyesight. You can find an antibiotic in the aquarium section of the local pet store. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated.