Is aquarium salt safe for mystery snails when treating betta ich?

Even though a picture of it would help to determine underlying cause more precisely, ich can only be killed in its free swimming stage. After it feeds off the fish, it drops into the substrate where it forms cysts and multiplies. Then the new ich parasites swim out of the gravel and find new fish hosts and start the cycle all over again. That is why it is important after all white spots have disappeared to continue treatment, you should continue treating for an additional 2 weeks after all symptoms are gone. After the spots disappear off the fish, I would vacuum the gravel to suck up any cysts. If you increase the temperature the life cycle of the ich becomes faster. All new fish should be placed in a quarantine tank for at least 2-3 weeks to make sure they are eating, free of disease, and are able to recuperate in a stress-free environment.

If your fish are salt tolerant, use one teaspoon of plain aquarium salt per gallon of water to treat Ich. Dissolve it in a cup of tank water then pour it slowly into the tank. Increase water temperature to about 85-86 F and hold for 10 days. Vacuum the substrate once your fish lose the "dots".

The safest treatment would be a temporary increase in water temperature and some plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt). Ich is very sensitive to temperature. Gradually increase water temperature, by no more than 1 degree F per hour, up to 86 F. Hold it at that temperature for at least 2weeks. This will speed up the life cycle and prevent reproduction. You can perform partial water changes (30%) and vacuum the substrate during treatment. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. An airstone should be used to increase oxygenation since warm water does not hold as much oxygen as cooler water. This could affect some the fish. Aquarium salt can be dissolved into the tank at 1-2 teaspoons per gallon of water. Dissolve it in a cup of tank water then pour it gently into the tank. When performing water changes, treat only the amount of water being replaced with salt, not the entire tank volume. After 2 weeks, gradually decrease water temperature back down to species appropriate levels.

The salt would probably irritate the snails. If you still have frogs in the tank, consider a salt bath instead. Dissolve 1 tablespoon of salt in 5 gallons of water then remove the frog(s) from the main tank and allow for a swim of no more than 60 seconds in the salt bath. Rinse then return them to the other tank or hospital tank.

Increase the temp, gradually, to 86 F and hold it there for at least two weeks. This will speed up the ich lifecycle. When the parasite is free swimming is when it is most susceptible to treatment. Once the spots drop off your fish, perform a major water change and vacuum the substrate thoroughly. If you have live plants, remove them and gently wipe them down, if you have artificial plants, remove them and sanitize them. The same goes for any tank furniture. Use the ich medication according to label directions. Keep the water temp elevated for 3-5 days after treatment and after all symptoms have resolved. Gradually reduce water temp back to normal afterwards. There is no definitive way to determine if the infection is resolved. You will to monitor the fish closely and repeat the process if necessary.

When there is an ich infection, it is necessary to treat the entire tank, even the fish that are not symptomatic. Ich has 3 distinct stages in the life cycle. Tomites, the free swimming stage, are most vulnerable to treatment. Once on the fish or encapsulated in the substrate, ich is very difficult to treat. A combination of increased water temp, aquarium salt and commercial medication can be used to treat ich. The increased water temp, 86F, will significantly speed up the lifecycle. It can take 1-2 weeks to treat minor infections and longer for more severe infections.

It doesn't have the appearance of ich. He would have white spots, like grains of salt all over him. I don't see fungal growth either in the images. He does have some fin rot though. Check the water chemistry. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or for a small fee. Confirm an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 40 ppm or less. maintain temp between 78 F and 80 F. This is the optimal range for a Betta. Maintain pristine water quality as well as temperature. Continue with the ParaGuard since it is appropriate for fin rot. Follow label directions. You can also add in a bit of plain aquarium salt (NOT table or Epsom salt) as a general tonic to decrease stress, improve gill function, treat minor infection and aid in recovery. Dissolve no more than 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tan. Treat with salt for 10-14 days then reassess his condition. Partial water changes can be done to reduce salinity. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. You may need to treat the fin rot for longer but don't use salt for more than 2 weeks in a row without a break. Also, if possible, decrease filter flow to reduce the current. Bettas prefer slow moving water. To provide an immune system boost, you can soak pellets in some garlic juice .