Why isn't API General Cure fixing my Dwarf Gourami's white spot?

Consider a broad spectrum treatment such as General Cure by API or Parasite Clear by Jungle Labs. Follow label directions. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) can be used concurrently to aid in healing and to treat minor infection and fin rot. Dissolve up to one tablespoon per gallon of water into a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Test water chemistry using a home test kit or submitting a water sample. Most pet or fish stores will do this for free or for a nominal fee. Correct any imbalances using aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Use a conditioner such as StressCoat as well. Confirm adequate filtration to maintain water quality.

Separate him out into a hospital tank if possible. He could be injuring himself on tank furniture (plants, rocks, etc.). You can treat using a broad spectrum antibiotic such as Maracyn or Kanaplex. Find them in the aquarium section of the local Petco or fish store. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) can also be used to aid healing. Dissolve 1 teaspoon per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 7-10 days then perform partial water changes to decrease salinity. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock.

The white fuzz may be Columnaris, an infection causing bacteria, or a fungal infection. It can be difficult to differentiate without microscopic examination. Either can be managed/treated via partial water changes, plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) and medications. Partial water changes, no more than 20-30% daily, will stabilize chemistry and maintain or improve water quality. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent additional stress or shock. Aquarium salt can be used at 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of water. Dissolve in a few cups of tank water and gradually pouyr it into the tank. Treat for 10-14 days then reasses the condition. When performing water changes, treat only the volume of water being replaced, not the entire tank volume. A methylene blue dip can be done daily. You can find it in the aquarium section of the local pet or fish store. A concentration of 50ppm is recommended. Do not add it to the main tank as it will turn everything blue and kill beneficial bacteria in the filter and substrate. Use a separate container and dip the fish for a few seconds, rinse and return it to the main tank. In the future, quarantine any new fish for several days to prevent introduction of disease to existing populations.

It could be early ich (white spot) infection or another infection (bacterial or fungal). To be safe, separate him into a quarantine tank and monitor for any change. You can treat for ich as you did it in the past if indicated. Bacterial and fungal infections have different treatments, so I would be hesitant to recommend a specific medication without more information or a definitive diagnosis. You can use plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt or Epsom salt). As a general tonic to reduce stress, increase gill function, treat minor infection of many types and to aid in recovery. This can be added to the quarantine tank at 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. Treat for 10-14 days then reassess the condition.

Check the water chemistry. The discoloration could be due to elevated ammonia levels which can cause "burns". Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20ppm or less. Perform partial water changes to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. The Neons (blue fish) appear to be infected with Ich, a parasite. Treatment is possible with commercial products found in the local Petco. Follow label directions carefully. You will need to treat the entire tank until all traces are gone. Removing a lump from your fish on your own is never recommended. You can cause severe injury. Most broad spectrum antibiotics (Kanaplex, Maracyn, Maracyn 2, etc.) found in the aquarium section of the local Petco should help treat or prevent infection. Choose one and follow label directions. Remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated. Maintain pristine water quality via filtration and regular partial water changes to aid in recovery. You can feed frozen worms, just thaw then first in a small cup then place them in the tank.

It doesn't have the appearance of ich. He would have white spots, like grains of salt all over him. I don't see fungal growth either in the images. He does have some fin rot though. Check the water chemistry. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or for a small fee. Confirm an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 40 ppm or less. maintain temp between 78 F and 80 F. This is the optimal range for a Betta. Maintain pristine water quality as well as temperature. Continue with the ParaGuard since it is appropriate for fin rot. Follow label directions. You can also add in a bit of plain aquarium salt (NOT table or Epsom salt) as a general tonic to decrease stress, improve gill function, treat minor infection and aid in recovery. Dissolve no more than 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tan. Treat with salt for 10-14 days then reassess his condition. Partial water changes can be done to reduce salinity. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. You may need to treat the fin rot for longer but don't use salt for more than 2 weeks in a row without a break. Also, if possible, decrease filter flow to reduce the current. Bettas prefer slow moving water. To provide an immune system boost, you can soak pellets in some garlic juice .

Make sure the charcoal/carbon is removed from the filter/tank for the duration of treatment or it will remove/absorb the medication. Try using metronidazole and kanamycin. There is metronidazole in the Parasite Guard but it may not be an adequate dose. Monitor water quality and keep nitrates below 20ppm if possible. Use only aged/conditioned water that is temperature an pH matched to reduce or prevent stress. Raise the water temp to the upper limit for Oscars and add a multivitamin. You can soak pellets prior to feeding. If you can find it, use VitaChem (by Boyds). Make sure Tiger is eating a biologically appropriate diet.