How to manage my dog's extreme reactivity to other dogs and people?

Many dogs have this problem - it's called leash reactivity :) It happens because Laika is so excited to see another dog, and frustrated because she can't immediately run over to them - which leads to barking and lots of crazy, uncontrollable behavior. Fortunately, this behavior is usually very treatable with a good training plan. Normally, a training plan for these dogs involves using very tasty treats to reward calm behavior at a distance from another dog - it's critical that you're far enough away that she can be calm and take treats, which means that you may need a lot of distance at first! Once she understands the game and is doing well, you can gradually move closer. It can be hard to do this on your own at first, so I would really recommend getting in touch with a good reward-based trainer who can help you in person. He/she can help by setting up controlled training situations at first with a calm "helper dog" to help both of you get the idea of how to work on the problem, until you're ready to transition to real life scenarios like passing another dog on a walk.

Thanks for using Petco Pet Education Center, formerly Petcoach. The answer is complicated and stems from the root of the problem. If Cassidy genuinely wants to play and meet these dogs, I don’t know that I would necessarily do anything. If this stems from fear of other dogs, leash anxiety specifically, or protectiveness of you, these are treated differently. Lowering the fear threshhold (if appropriate) via anti-anxiety medication can help tremendously. I’ve had severely dog-aggressive dogs who, with medication, don’t seem to care at all when they pass another dog on a walk. Results of course vary depending on root cause, medication, and individual dog. Counter-conditioning is also crucial. This is the act of training Cassidy to associate other dogs with something good (usually treats). This can take weeks and all of dedication and patience but is usually more effective and long-lasting than medication. Sometimes it is not effective however, until the medication is started. I’d have a conversation with a vet first to help narrow down the cause and start on medication if appropriate. Then move to a reputable trainer or behaviorist. Best wishes to you and Cassidy!

This is really tricky. Many training groups offer classes for Reactive Dogs that can help. Make sure they use positive only training, no force or punishments. The basic steps to working on this are minimizing chances for an encounter, teaching him a behavior that is incompatible with going nuts (such as watching you and eating a treat), and then SLOWLY SLOWLY SLOWLY introducing him to other dogs (you really need a good trainer to help with this portion, you have to go so slow it's painful). I would recommend not allowing him to be outside by himself so that you can remove him if he starts to bark - you may even need to keep a leash on him so you can easily get him and calmly go inside. In short, this is a common and real, but very hard to resolve issue, so I'd encourage you to find an amazing trainer or even have a consultation with a veterinary behaviorist.

Poor Panda! Some dogs do become very fearful of other dogs after an incident like this, which can lead to barking and lunging on the leash. It sounds like you're on the right track by trying to use treats to help make her more comfortable - but if she is still barking and lunging, this means you need to be further away. Start at a distance where she is comfortable and able to take treats calmly, then gradually work on moving closer as long as she is doing well. It can be very difficult to do this on your own, especially if her anxiety is severe. I would really recommend making an appointment with a veterinary behaviorist or a good reward-based trainer who can help you in person for the best chance of success. You can search for a board-certified veterinary behaviorist in your area here (www.dacvb.org) or a qualified trainer here (www.ccpdt.org)

Poor Mia! If she is too upset to take treats, this means that you need to be further away from the things that are scaring her. Some dogs need a lot of distance at first! When you are far enough away for her to be comfortable, you can praise and reward her for calm behavior, then gradually work on moving closer as long as she's doing well. It can be challenging to do this on your own at first, so I would recommend getting in touch with a veterinary behaviorist or a good reward-based trainer who can work with you in person. You can search for a board-certified veterinary behaviorist in your area here (www.dacvb.org) or a qualified trainer here (www.ccpdt.org).

Poor pup! Lots of dogs have this problem, and it's definitely something that can be improved. The basic treatment plan for this issue involves teaching your dog to associate good things (usually treats!) with seeing people and other dogs. You need to start at a distance where he is able to notice them without immediately reacting - so depending on how severe his problem is, you may need a lot of distance at first! Every time he looks at a person or another dog, praise and reward with a treat. If he's barking or not interested in the treats, this means you're too close - back up a bit to where he's comfortable, and try again. It can be hard to do this on your own at first, so I would strongly recommend making an appointment with a veterinary behaviorist or a good reward-based trainer to work with you in person. He/she can help you set up controlled training situations at first to practice, until you and your dog are both comfortable with how things are going. Punishment of any kind is not recommended for this behavior, as it only makes the dog more anxious and worsens the problem over time - steer clear of any trainer who recommends corrections for this behavior. You can search for a board-certified veterinary behaviorist in your area here (www.dacvb.org) or a qualified trainer here (www.ccpdt.org).

This is a very common problem, and one that is best solved with a trainer or veterinary behaviorist that can help you in person. Leash reactivity can be due to a number of things including fear, lack of socialization, bad experiences, etc, so a trainer that can observe the behavior and get you started on a training plan is best. If Phoebe is also blind in one eye it could be that other dogs are taking her by surprise, leading to the reactivity as well. Most trainers will utilize a technique called BAT (Behavioral Adjustment Training) that involves a combination of desensitization to the stimulus (other dogs on leash) as well as gradually getting your dog used to them from a safe distance at first, until they are gradually calmer and able to handle it. Until you can talk to a trainer, giving other dogs a wide berth and changing up your walks can help prevent any fights or upset from happening. If she does walk past a dog calmly, lots of praise and treats are good as well!