Is it safe to use flea bath concentrate on cats that lick themselves?

No this is absolutely not recommended, first of all you can overdose her, secondly i generally do not recommend flea baths for cats, they are less effective and tend to cause severe side effects. Hartz isn't a good product either, for next time i would recommend something from the following list: Spot ons: Revoulution Advantage Advantage Multi Frontline Bravecto spot on (ticks as well) - for cats Tablets: Comfortis Collar: Seresto ( (ticks as well) House spary: Indoorex

As long as the pesticide was completely dried, and you wait the recommended amount of time before entering the house again, your cats should be fine and there should be minimal to no risk of them getting pesticide on their fur :-)

Hi there! The product you placed on her has a few essential oils in it but nothing else. These are generally not toxic but could cause an upset stomach if ingested. The only worry I would have is the product not working as non of these oils in the product are efficacious in treating and preventing fleas in cats. I would try a Rx from your veterinarian. If Bell appears very irritated with the product on her, then I'd give her a bath to wash off the oils. A product called Revolution or Comfortis works very well. You may to ask your vet about getting Bell on either one of those or something similar.

Given that they are both fine and happy now, I wouldn't be concerned. Cats typically are not fans of being bathed, and it may have been a bit shocking for them to get out of the warm water into the cooler bathroom air. That may have been why they fell down. Flea baths do not provide lasting protection against fleas, and since cats hate baths so much, it would be better to use a flea treatment program for them. I will put one below for you, I hope this helps! First, I would give them Capstar. It's a one time pill that starts killing fleas within 30 minutes. Then follow up with a spot on treatment, such as Advantage or Revolution. This is a treatment that has to be used once a month. You will also have to disinfect the environment. Wash their bedding in hot soapy water, and vacuum the furniture and carpet surfaces. You can use a spray to kill fleas in the house, such as Indorex, or a flea bomb would work well to kill the fleas in the home.

SIGNS OF TOXICITY All flea control products are potentially toxic or may produce unexpected side effects. Toxicity may result from accidental overdose or unexpected sensitivity. Known side effects, although rare, are vomiting, diarrhea, drooling, sluggishness, weakness, or abnormal behavior. If you suspect that your animal is reacting adversely to a flea control product, stop using the product and consult your veterinarian immediately. If the reaction occurs immediately after application, the product should be rinsed off thoroughly and the animal brought to the veterinarian for evaluation. Adverse reactions may occur from minutes to days following application. Insecticides can be toxic to people; all products should be handled carefully, avoiding direct contact as much as possible. Keep all products out of the reach of children. Cats are particularly sensitive to many pesticides. ONLY USE PRODUCTS LABELED TO BE SAFELY USED ON CATS. If you have any questions about a product’s safety, please consult your veterinarian. FLEA CONTROL IN YOUR ENVIRONMENT Immature life stages of the flea accumulate in the environment when animals with fleas serve to disperse flea eggs into the environment where they then hatch into juvenile life stages. House and yard treatments need to be concentrated on "source points", which are areas where your pets spend most of their time. This typically would include the bedding and resting areas, the feeding location, etc. You can lessen the flea burden in your home by thorough vacuuming of all source points followed by disposal of the vacuum bag and by washing all animal bedding weekly in hot water and drying at high heat for twenty minutes. Steam cleaning of rugs and carpeting +/- upholstery is also helpful. In the yard, focus on areas where your pet(s) or other animals spend most of their time. Typically, fleas survive and reproduce in shaded, moist areas with plant or organic debris (under decks, bushes, storage sheds, etc). Fleas do not survive or reproduce well in sunny, open areas of lawn or patio. Elimination of yard debris will be helpful in reducing flea numbers. You may choose to utilize a professional exterminator service for the treatment of fleas in your home and garden. REALISTIC EXPECTATIONS It is important to realize that the various anti-flea medications do not eliminate the immature forms of fleas in the environment. Thus, for the first month or so you may continue to see fleas on your pet as the juvenile forms mature and search for a new host. This does not mean that the fleas have built up resistance to the medication – in reality, flea resistance to these products is quite rare. The most common reasons for failure to control a flea problem are: 1. Frequent washing of a pet treated with a spot-on product (this includes swimming in pools, lakes or the ocean). 2. Inconsistency in the application of the product. 3. Failure to treat all pets. 4. Wildlife reservoirs of fleas (feral cats, raccoons, opossums, coyotes, etc.). Thus areas below outside decks, old sheds, etc. should be barricaded or locked to discourage such ‘visitors’.

You can use Frontline spray on all cats, which should not be detrimental in case they groom each other. Unfortunately fleas hop on to drink and then hop off again and live in the environment. So you need to put flea powder in your vacuum cleaner and regularly vacuum your house that kill all fleas, eggs and larvae.

I do not think you need to be worried, however, I do not think that this spray is useful against fleas. Here is a proper way of getting rid of fleas: Unfortunately fleas only hop on the body of your pet when they want to feed, then they hop off again and stay in your pet's environment. So you need to treat all pets in the household as well as the environment (which contains the fleas, their eggs and larvae). Flea treatment:  1) Get some flea medication such as a Flea spray or a spot on from a pet shop or your veterinarian and apply monthly 2) get flea powder, put some in your vacuum cleaner bag and vacuum your house and furniture and also non-carpeted areas frequently to remove flea larvae and eggs which live off house dust., Dispose of the bag in the trash outside. Hot-wash all the pet's bedding, If you do this diligently for a few months you will get rid of the fleas. Flea products: Spot-ons and/or chews Advantage, Advantage Multi (Advocate in the UK) Frontline (ticks as well) Bravecto spot on (ticks as well) - for cats Simparica, Nexgard Revolution (stronghold in the UK) Tablets: comfortis (will only kill fleas once) Collar: Seresto (ticks as well) House spray: Indorex