Amazon parrot care: cage, sleep, and preventing escapes?

Thanks for your questions about birds. You can shower with birds, but it is recommended that they sit on a perch or on the shower rod during the shower, not that they are directly hit by the spray. A safer way to give them a shower is by using a gentle mist directed over the top of them with a spray bottle. When provided with appropriate and balanced nutrition, a cuttle bone is not necessary for parrots. The food that you posted is a reliable pelleted diet, but you would need to ensure that you got an appropriate size for the species - for example, the mini pellets would be good for a conure but not for an Amazon. If you have never had a bird before, it may be a big commitment to get a medium to large sized parrot. When cared for appropriately, these large parrots can live many decades - ideally 50 years or more. You may potentially consider starting with a smaller parrot, such as a cockatiel (life span of up to 25 years) or a budgerigar (life span around 8 years). I hope that gives you some additional information!

Try to make sure Peet's cage is ina quiet draft free area. If you don't already I recommend covering his cage at night. Make sure no other animals such as dogs or cats have access to the cage or around it as they could easily cause him to startle. Most birds will sleep soundly if the cage is covered and in a dark room. Thank you for using Petco Pet Education Center, formerly Petcoach

Thanks for reaching out about Aqua. You can search for free cages on sites such as Craigs List or local bird rescue groups. A minimal size is probably 2' x 2' x 3', but depends on how much time is spent in the cage. Flight is good exercise but needs to monitored so the birds don't get themselves into trouble flying around. No bird should be left outside of its cage unattended. If birds are active and out of the cage for a fair amount, the night cage can be smaller, as is for mostly sleeping. Good luck.

Birds do need a lot of room to fly, as well as a lot of attention; birds are in general a great deal of work and it is a big investment in time and money. Many people who have parrots allow them to perch free on top of the cage, or on other perches throughout the house. Be prepared for destruction--all birds use their beaks to explore (read:destroy) their environments, and the larger the parrot, the larger the beak! Also, many of these birds live longer than humans so it is important to have a plan in place for your children or others to be able to inherit and care for these birds after you are gone. Some parrots would be inclined to harass your rabbits, but I think actually attacking them is unlikely.

Hi there and thanks for your post! Parakeets are creatures of habit and when you switch out their environment, it can be a bit of a mid life crisis for them! If you have mirrors in the cage right now, that actually encourage reproduction / courtship towards his reflection which can keep him up at night. I would remove any and all mirrors from the cage for now until he is used to the new cage. I would also get a new toy that is unique to this new cage you got. It will take some time but I think this will help. Please feel free to contact me with any other questions / concerns you may have.

Hello! You absolutely can get a dome top cage! The bigger the better for birds, as exercise is very important to their physical and psychological health. The major thing to consider if the bar spacing. You don’t want the parakeets to be able to get their heads through the bars, so stick with 1/4-1/2 inch spacing to be safe. Some big cages have wider spacing, around 1 inch and this may be too wide for your birds. Also, make sure the cage is high quality powder coated and not exposed metal, as zinc and lead exposure can be an issue with wrought iron or hand made cages. Good luck!

Parakeets, also called Budgerigars, are small members of the parrot family and they can become good mimics. The average adult size is 7 inches long, head to end of tail. The average life span is between 10 to 20 years with proper care. A well-balanced Parakeet diet consists of: Specialized pellets should make up 60-70% of diet, fresh vegetables and fruits and small amounts of fortified seeds Clean, fresh, filtered, chlorine-free water, changed daily. Do not feed birds: avocado, fruit seeds, chocolate, caffeine or alcohol; it can cause serious medical conditions. Avoid sugar and high fat treats. Things to remember when feeding your Parakeet: Fresh food and water should always be available. Vegetables and fruits not eaten within a few hours should be discarded. Remember, treats should not exceed 10% of total food intake. Housing Parakeets acclimate well to average household temperatures, not to exceed 80°F; be cautious of extreme temperature changes. The habitat should area that is well-lit and away from drafts. A habitat approximately 18"W x 18"D x 18"H, with metal bars spaced no greater than 1-2" apart, makes a good home for one Parakeet. A flight habitat is strongly recommended. It is best to provide the largest habitat possible. Perches should be at least 4" long and 3-8" in diameter; a variety of perch sizes to exercise feet and help prevent arthritis is recommended. Perches should be at least 4" long and 3-8" in diameter; a variety of perch sizes to exercise feet and help prevent arthritis is recommended. A metal grate over the droppings tray will keep the bird away from droppings; line the droppings tray with habitat paper or appropriate substrate for easier cleaning. To avoid contamination, do not place food or water containers under perches. Parakeets can be kept alone to bond with pet parent or in pairs to bond with each other. Different birds she not be housed together. Normal Behavior Parakeets are talkers, but their little voices are sometimes hard to hear. Active and need daily time out of their habitats to interact with family. Keep in pairs if unable to devote daily interaction time. Provide foraging toys, which provide important mental stimulation. Housing Maintenance Clean and disinfect the habitat and perches regularly; replace substrate or habitat liner weekly or more often as needed. Replace perches, dishes, and toys when worn or damaged; rotate new toys into the habitat regularly. Ensure that there are no habitat parts or toys with lead, zinc or lead-based paints or galvanized parts as these can cause serious medical issues if ingested by your bird. Do not use a lot of cleaning agents around your bird a natural cleaner. Grooming & Hygiene Provide filtered, chlorine-free, lukewarm water regularly for bathing; remove the water when done. As an alternative, mist the bird with water. Clipping flight feathers is not necessary, but when done correctly it can help prevent injury or escape; consult an avian veterinarian on what is best for your bird. Nails should be trimmed by a qualified person to prevent injury to the bird. Signs of a Healthy Animal: Active, alert, and sociable Eats and drinks throughout the day Dry nares and bright, dry eyes Beak, legs and feet normal in appearance Clean, dry vent Smooth, well-groomed feathers Common Health Issues Chlamydiosis: Appetite loss, fluffed feathers, nasal discharge, green stool. Seek immediate avian veterinary attention. Diarrhea: Fecal portion of stool is not formed. Multiple causes from diet change to internal parasites. Consult with an avian veterinarian and ensure proper diet. Feather plucking: Bird plucks own feathers; may be due to boredom, poor diet or other illness. Consult your veterinarian and relieve boredom with attention, new toys or new space. Mites (scaly face and leg disease): White deposits on eyes, beak, legs, and feet. Consult your veterinarian. Red Flags Beak swelling or accumulations Fluffed, plucked, or soiled feathers Sitting on floor